For our daughter’s first big trip we chose Croatia, the gate to the Balkans, and planned a road trip down the coast instead of a week at one resort. We drove from Munich through Austria and Slovenia to Opatija, then on to Makarska, and later to Montenegro.
After giving birth I was constantly tired, breastfeeding and waking up many times every night. At some point I realised I could not change that, but I could change where it happened. It is much better to go through it standing in the sun. To be precise, standing in the sunset.
This journal combines our posts about a road trip in May 2015, when our first daughter, Zofia, was eight months old. It was our first big journey as a family.
First stop: Opatija and the Lungomare
Opatija is a small, elegant town near Rijeka. Its best-known walk is the Lungomare, a seaside promenade of around 12 km that links Volosko, Opatija and Lovran past old villas, gardens and bathing spots.
We stayed only two nights, in a room on a hill with a terrace, palm trees and cats in the garden. A small gate led down through bamboo to the sea. Zofia refused to fall asleep before she had seen the sea for the first time, and the sound of the waves on our evening walks put her to sleep quickly afterwards.
The Makarska Riviera with a baby
Makarska is a small town between Split and Dubrovnik, at the foot of the Biokovo mountains. We chose it because its beaches were often recommended for families, and they were: small pebbles, clear water and trees that gave some shade.
We visited at the end of May. The sea was still too cold for a baby to bathe, but we had plenty of space on the beach. We also arrived with one of the strongest winds of the season, so on the first day my husband had to hold on to me on the steep path so that the wind would not push Zofia and me downhill. A simple beach tent saved our beach days.
Things to do in Makarska with kids
- Walk along the harbour and the palm-lined promenade, especially in the evening.
- Visit the Sveti Petar peninsula and its lighthouse at the entrance to the port.
- Spend an evening in Kačić Square and the old town lanes.
- Take a ferry to the island of Brač from the harbour.
- Look up at Biokovo, or visit the nature park and its Skywalk viewpoint if your children are old enough. 1
- Above all, watch the sunset from the beach or from a terrace on the hill.
Staying with a local family
We rented an apartment from a lovely couple on the hillside above town, with sunset views from the terrace. They laughed every day that our baby never seemed to sleep, and they made us feel completely at home. Across Croatia, people smiled at Zofia, talked to her and tried to make things easier for us the moment they saw we were travelling with a baby.
Road trip tips with a baby
Our planned five or six hours of driving from Munich to Opatija turned into ten. Babies need more stops than you expect.
- Car seats can get very hot and sweaty. We placed a cotton cloth in the seat and changed it when it was damp.
- Always keep a change of clothes within reach.
- Most beaches on this coast are pebbly, so pack water shoes for everyone.
- The motorway towards Makarska is faster and easier than the old coastal road. Further south, the Pelješac Bridge now lets you reach Dubrovnik without crossing the short Bosnian stretch at Neum.
- Croatia uses the euro and is in the Schengen area, but check the entry rules for your own passport and for every country on your route.
Continuing south
From Makarska we drove on to Montenegro: read about the Bay of Kotor with a baby, our later visit to Dubrovnik and the Balkans with kids guide.
This journal is part of our Balkans with Kids guide, with a suggested route and more stories from the same journey.
Good to know
A couple of useful questions
Is Makarska good for families with young children?
Yes. The town beach has small pebbles, clear water and some shade, and the promenade is easy with a pushchair. Bring water shoes and a beach tent.
When is the best time to visit Makarska with a baby?
Late May, June and September are calmer than July and August. In late May the sea may still be cold for a baby.
How long is the Lungomare in Opatija?
Around 12 km, from Volosko through Opatija to Lovran. You can walk any short section of it.
Sources and useful links
References for the practical information in this article:
Information checked on 22 October 2026.
