If the word Mallorca makes you think of party songs and package holidays, this journal is for you. We went looking for the other island: quiet coves, mountains and long walks.

This journal describes an active autumn trip focused on diving and hiking. It is not a guide to travelling in Mallorca with small children.

When to go and how to plan

We recommend the end of the season, in September and October. It is no longer as hot as in summer, there are fewer visitors, and the sea is still warm.

Mallorca works well with one base and day trips by car. A flight-and-hotel package plus a rental car often costs less than changing accommodation every few days.

Day 1: Cala Rajada and a first dive

Our base was Cala Rajada in the north-east. We spent the first day settling in, walking around the town and writing postcards, and finished with the sunset over the sea.

In the morning we went diving with the closest school to our hotel. Honestly, it was not a great experience: the underwater views were modest, the price was high and the instructor was not the best. Compare dive centres carefully before you book. Still, diving at the end of September beat putting on a winter coat at home.

Day 2: Inca market and a Tramuntana ridge walk

We started with grocery shopping at the market in Inca, the island’s third-largest town, then drove into the Serra de Tramuntana, the mountain range listed by UNESCO as a cultural landscape. 1

Our route crossed the peaks of Puig de sa Rateta, Coll des Gats, Puig de na Franquesa and Puig de l’Ofre and finished at the Cúber reservoir: about 10 km and a little over four hours. We spent an hour looking for the start because the directions in our guidebook were unclear, so download a reliable track before you go. Once on the ridge, the views were spectacular.

Hiking safely in the Tramuntana

  • Start early and carry plenty of water; there is little shade on the ridges.
  • Use an up-to-date map or GPS track, not only a printed description.
  • Check the weather and avoid the mountains in storms or strong wind.
  • Some paths cross private land; follow signs and close gates behind you.

Good to know

A couple of useful questions

When is the best time to visit Mallorca for hiking?

Autumn and spring. September and October combine warm sea water with cooler hiking days and fewer crowds.

Where is a quiet base in Mallorca?

We liked Cala Rajada in the north-east, and used a car for day trips to the mountains and markets.