Mostar was never simply a stop on our way to the Croatian coast. We wanted time for the river, the stone streets and the conversations that happen when you are not already thinking about your next departure. The Old Bridge is unforgettable, but it is only the beginning of the visit.

Our favourite way to experience the city is to leave room in the day: walk a little, look across the Neretva, sit down for coffee, and walk some more. With children, that approach also makes more sense than trying to collect every sight before lunch.

Based on our family's original travel journal, including a visit in 2019. The route below is an editorial suggestion, not a record of a new trip.

Start with the bridge, and understand what it means

Stari Most connects the two sides of the historic centre. It is both a route through the city and a place where everyone wants to stop. Take your photograph, then look beyond the bridge itself: the houses, hills and river give the scene its character.

UNESCO records that much of the historic centre and the bridge were destroyed during the conflict of the 1990s. The bridge was rebuilt in 2004, and the Old Bridge Area entered the World Heritage List in 2005. Its importance includes the coexistence of different communities, not only its architecture.

We were in Mostar during the Red Bull Cliff Diving event in 2019. That belongs to our travel memory; it is not a promise that an event or diving display will take place during your visit.

A relaxed walk through the Old Town

Give both sides of the bridge some attention. Follow the cobbled lanes, pause at a view of the Neretva and let the walk include the small details: a coffee set in a shop window, a doorway, or the sound of the call to prayer.

Tepa Market was one of our stops for fruit and local produce. We also enjoyed looking at the coffee and tea sets, trays and jewellery in the Old Town. If you buy something, ask about its material and how it was made; a souvenir means more when you understand what you are taking home.

The Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque featured in our original account for its setting and views. If you want to enter a religious building or climb a minaret, check the current visitor arrangements and dress requirements locally. Keep the climb optional rather than making it the centre of a family day.

A small stone bridge among the stone buildings and cobbled lanes of Mostar’s Old Town.
A small stone bridge among the stone buildings and cobbled lanes of Mostar’s Old Town.Image: Love travelling family

Leave space for Bosnian coffee

A coffee break was part of our sightseeing, not an interruption to it. In our journal, Bosnian coffee arrived in a small metal džezva with a little cup, a fildžan. We brought a set home, so the memory followed us long after the journey ended.

For a family meal, we liked grilled dishes, bread and a seasonal salad. These are memories of what we enjoyed, rather than recommendations for a particular restaurant that may have changed since our visit. Choose a place where you can sit comfortably and take the time you need.

What to plan when you have children with you

  • Treat the bridge and uneven Old Town lanes as slow walking sections. In our experience the stones could be slippery, especially when wet.
  • A carrier can be useful for the most awkward surfaces; decide what works for your child and your own comfort rather than expecting a completely smooth stroller route.
  • We preferred walking earlier or later in the day when the centre felt less intense. Keep a shaded break and a relaxed meal in the plan.
  • Enjoy the river from suitable viewpoints. The historic streets, bridge and riverbanks are places to explore together, with children close by.

A simple plan for your first day

Begin with a short Old Town walk and a crossing of Stari Most. Choose one extra stop, such as the market or a religious building with confirmed visitor access, then take a proper break for lunch. Return to the lanes or a river view later if everyone still has energy.

An overnight stay gives you more freedom to spread those walks out. That is our preferred pace, rather than a rule about how long everyone must stay. Check your accommodation's access and parking arrangements before arriving, particularly if you have bags, a stroller and a tired child.

The Neretva River flowing between Mostar’s riverside buildings at dusk.
The Neretva River flowing between Mostar’s riverside buildings at dusk.Image: Love travelling family

Keep exploring the Balkans

For another combination of an old town and time by the water, read our Budva family journal. If street art is more your thing, Metelkova in Ljubljana shows a very different side of a Balkan road trip. These are separate destination ideas, not a suggested same-day route.

Good to know

A couple of useful questions

Can you explore Mostar with a stroller?

A stroller may be useful for parts of your stay, but the bridge and uneven historic lanes need extra thought. Our own account describes slippery stone and cobbles. A carrier is worth considering for those sections.

Do we need to see everything in one day?

No. A bridge crossing, an Old Town walk and a long break can make a satisfying day. We preferred giving Mostar more time instead of treating it as a quick transit stop.